Topics

Willard Hull-Deck joint


Richard A. Miller
 

The flange of the deck molding overlaps the flange of the hull molding and, presumably, is bedded.

The fasteners for the cap rail and lifeline- stantion mounting screws penetrate both fiberglass flanges.  As bedding compound breaks down over time (and due to use of stantions as dockside “handles” which opens the threads) water can wick down the fastener threads and drip inside the hull below.

Richard Miller W40 FBS Adria

On Aug 16, 2020, at 5:03 PM, dpstainsby Stainsby <dpstainsby@...> wrote:



Hi, Pam and I are the new owners of Loon A Sea, formerly Patito and Poco a Poco a 1991 Willard Pilot House 40. We are the former owners of Foley's Fault a 36 sedan.

Does anybody know how the connection, under the teak cap rail,  between the hull  and deck is achieved. The reason I would like to know is I am in the process of trying to refinish the cap rails and if the connection is fibre glassed and sealed I will only caulk the outside of the cap rail/hull seam.  My reasoning for this is;  the cap rails have had a lot of sanding done to them over time and some screws are exposed and the caulking at the joints between sections of cap rail is looking in poor condition so I think I should expect leaks even though I haven't ween any evidence of them. The boat hasn't gotten wet though since we have had her.  I don't have time, right now to properly re fasten the cap rails and deal with the end seams on the teak.  I don't want water leaking into the hull but if the joint between hull and deck is water tight and fibre glassed then I think it would make sense to allow any water that gets through the teak to drain out on the inwale side of hull /deck joint instead of being trapped under the teak and causing trouble with the new varnish.

If anybody has any thoughts they would be appreciated.

Thanks, Dick Stainsby


On 2020-08-15 2:04 p.m., Rick E wrote:

Hi Les - I currently have only 1 Willard burgee left.  I ask for a $50 donation to the Willard Owners Group (WOG), and then just make your request to info@....  I will be ordering more, so for any additional orders please allow 4-6 weeks for delivery.


Info about WOG, including an image of the burgee is at https://willardboats.org/join-wog .It’s a high quality marine grade burgee, suitable for 30 to 40’ Willards.

I also have two Willard baseball caps available, $25 each. Again, you can use the WOG donation form at 
https://willardboats.org/donate-wog 

Donations support the WOG website, WOG Rendezvous (if we’re ever able to have them again!), and if funds are still available, will be contributed to support this WBO list.

Thanks,
Rick E., willardboats.org


--
Rick E., Vega Nomad "Sunshine"
willardboats.org


dpstainsby Stainsby
 

Thanks Richard, That's a big help.

On 2020-08-18 11:47 a.m., Richard A. Miller wrote:
The flange of the deck molding overlaps the flange of the hull molding and, presumably, is bedded.

The fasteners for the cap rail and lifeline- stantion mounting screws penetrate both fiberglass flanges.  As bedding compound breaks down over time (and due to use of stantions as dockside “handles” which opens the threads) water can wick down the fastener threads and drip inside the hull below.

Richard Miller W40 FBS Adria

On Aug 16, 2020, at 5:03 PM, dpstainsby Stainsby <dpstainsby@...> wrote:



Hi, Pam and I are the new owners of Loon A Sea, formerly Patito and Poco a Poco a 1991 Willard Pilot House 40. We are the former owners of Foley's Fault a 36 sedan.

Does anybody know how the connection, under the teak cap rail,  between the hull  and deck is achieved. The reason I would like to know is I am in the process of trying to refinish the cap rails and if the connection is fibre glassed and sealed I will only caulk the outside of the cap rail/hull seam.  My reasoning for this is;  the cap rails have had a lot of sanding done to them over time and some screws are exposed and the caulking at the joints between sections of cap rail is looking in poor condition so I think I should expect leaks even though I haven't ween any evidence of them. The boat hasn't gotten wet though since we have had her.  I don't have time, right now to properly re fasten the cap rails and deal with the end seams on the teak.  I don't want water leaking into the hull but if the joint between hull and deck is water tight and fibre glassed then I think it would make sense to allow any water that gets through the teak to drain out on the inwale side of hull /deck joint instead of being trapped under the teak and causing trouble with the new varnish.

If anybody has any thoughts they would be appreciated.

Thanks, Dick Stainsby


On 2020-08-15 2:04 p.m., Rick E wrote:

Hi Les - I currently have only 1 Willard burgee left.  I ask for a $50 donation to the Willard Owners Group (WOG), and then just make your request to info@....  I will be ordering more, so for any additional orders please allow 4-6 weeks for delivery.


Info about WOG, including an image of the burgee is at https://willardboats.org/join-wog .It’s a high quality marine grade burgee, suitable for 30 to 40’ Willards.

I also have two Willard baseball caps available, $25 each. Again, you can use the WOG donation form at 
https://willardboats.org/donate-wog 

Donations support the WOG website, WOG Rendezvous (if we’re ever able to have them again!), and if funds are still available, will be contributed to support this WBO list.

Thanks,
Rick E., willardboats.org


--
Rick E., Vega Nomad "Sunshine"
willardboats.org