willard 36 windows


Steve Wurm
 

hi willard owners , I am about to replace the windows on my 36 standard  hull # 1 . Have any of you info about the trim or rubber extrusion gaskets that hold the windows in place.  especially the curved corner windows  . Also I have been in touch with mark plastics in corona and will probably  have him make the windows . Mark  is no longer willing to make vinyl trim for the curved windows . I am having great difficulty finding already made extrusion that looks like a good match for what was originally used by willard . Also don't  yet have exact measurements for the wall thickness of plywood structure up front , assuming it to be 3/4" but won't know until I remove one of the windows and get exact measurements . I have  found 3/4" x 1/4" rubber lockstrip or H strip as it is also called but it is black , white rubber is first choice for matching other windows that don't need replacement.  Any suggestions info tip comments would be greatly appreciated . I was also thinking of the possible cost feasibility of having new extrusion dies made to match the original gaskets. so that I could have matching white rubber all around . Many details to be answered to proceed forward with this project . Thanks 
   Steve Wurm 



Peter P
 

Hey Steve - been a long time. Hope you and Rattler are doing well. She was the first W36 built, Weebles is the last. 

Did Mark give any idea why he won't make the frame for the curved windows? He has a mold for them, but I have to say, it's a tough fit. Even if he only got them close, with a heat-gun, it might be possible to get them field-fit. I don't have close-up pics of my windows handy, but will snap a few in a day or so. Mine are custom-fabricated by the yard here in Ensenada, but in hindsight, would have been easier and probably cheaper to use Marks. He did curve the 1/4" plexiglas for me which worked out fairly well (picture below). 

The plywood portions of the walls on Weebles are probably 1/2", not 3/4". Total thickness with fiberglass skin is probably 3/4" I would probably give the black rubber welting a go even though it's black. I beleive there are some decent paints out there for plastic and rubber that are fairly flexible. Would probably get at least a few years out them if not longer. 

Here are some WBO posts that might help -

https://willardboatowners.groups.io/g/main/message/14917  unfortunately, the tinyURL links are now dead, so no pics, but he gives a decent explanation. Interesting idea to use a massive heater on the inside as he forms the plexiglass. 

https://willardboatowners.groups.io/g/main/message/12883

https://willardboatowners.groups.io/g/main/message/6200






M/V Weebles
1970 Willard 36 Sedan Hull #40

Ensenada, MX


FROM THE WBO FILES - NO IDEA WHO'S BOAT THIS IS:





Robert F Neefus
 

Check with WEFCO Rubber Products in Canoga Park, CA. They have hundreds of dies. If they don’t have your extrusion, they can make a die. They work black or white rubber. www.Wefco rubber.com
--
Capt Bob on “Patience”, a 30-foot Fales.


Steve Wurm
 

Thanks all for great tips I'm going to contact wefco and try to get white rubber extrusion.  If not I can live with black.  However the original seals on  Rattler had a unique shape . They were not just regular h strip but also had extra flare extending up the surface of the glass . I presume this was for extra holding strength? A while back I spent what seemed like hours looking through wefco's catalog and couldn't find a match. Perhaps I didn't know what I was looking at.  Complex extrusions can look quite different on paper than when locked together on the window.  I am thinking of bringing a piece of original molding to wefco and setting it on their counter . It's possible that they made the original giving their socal location.  I'll let everyone know about progress. Also the reason Mark plastics gave for no longer doing vinyl trim for the curved windows was because It was a pain in the rear or words to that affect. He said something about steaming or steam bending the vinyl that was just very difficult.  Anyway he was no longer willing to do trim for curved windows I will have them do curved windows and side sliding windows.  He said it was no problem to do vinyl trim for the flat pieces.  Thanks all I will be back with more details. 

On Mon, Sep 19, 2022, 2:21 PM Robert F Neefus via groups.io <captneefus=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:
Check with WEFCO Rubber Products in Canoga Park, CA. They have hundreds of dies. If they don’t have your extrusion, they can make a die. They work black or white rubber. www.Wefco rubber.com
--
Capt Bob on “Patience”, a 30-foot Fales.


Steve (W36 “Broadbill”)
 

My W36 is number 12 and is Broadbill not Rattler


On Sep 19, 2022, at 5:07 PM, Peter P via groups.io <pete_pisc@...> wrote:

Hey Steve - been a long time. Hope you and Rattler are doing well. She was the first W36 built, Weebles is the last. 

Did Mark give any idea why he won't make the frame for the curved windows? He has a mold for them, but I have to say, it's a tough fit. Even if he only got them close, with a heat-gun, it might be possible to get them field-fit. I don't have close-up pics of my windows handy, but will snap a few in a day or so. Mine are custom-fabricated by the yard here in Ensenada, but in hindsight, would have been easier and probably cheaper to use Marks. He did curve the 1/4" plexiglas for me which worked out fairly well (picture below). 

The plywood portions of the walls on Weebles are probably 1/2", not 3/4". Total thickness with fiberglass skin is probably 3/4" I would probably give the black rubber welting a go even though it's black. I beleive there are some decent paints out there for plastic and rubber that are fairly flexible. Would probably get at least a few years out them if not longer. 

Here are some WBO posts that might help -

https://willardboatowners.groups.io/g/main/message/14917  unfortunately, the tinyURL links are now dead, so no pics, but he gives a decent explanation. Interesting idea to use a massive heater on the inside as he forms the plexiglass. 

https://willardboatowners.groups.io/g/main/message/12883

https://willardboatowners.groups.io/g/main/message/6200






M/V Weebles
1970 Willard 36 Sedan Hull #40

Ensenada, MX


FROM THE WBO FILES - NO IDEA WHO'S BOAT THIS IS:
<dummyfile.0.part>




--
Steve Vega 36 “Broadbill


Steve (W36 “Broadbill”)
 

Read the email wrong,my bad,but am also having an impossible time finding window gasket 


On Sep 19, 2022, at 5:07 PM, Peter P via groups.io <pete_pisc@...> wrote:

Hey Steve - been a long time. Hope you and Rattler are doing well. She was the first W36 built, Weebles is the last. 

Did Mark give any idea why he won't make the frame for the curved windows? He has a mold for them, but I have to say, it's a tough fit. Even if he only got them close, with a heat-gun, it might be possible to get them field-fit. I don't have close-up pics of my windows handy, but will snap a few in a day or so. Mine are custom-fabricated by the yard here in Ensenada, but in hindsight, would have been easier and probably cheaper to use Marks. He did curve the 1/4" plexiglas for me which worked out fairly well (picture below). 

The plywood portions of the walls on Weebles are probably 1/2", not 3/4". Total thickness with fiberglass skin is probably 3/4" I would probably give the black rubber welting a go even though it's black. I beleive there are some decent paints out there for plastic and rubber that are fairly flexible. Would probably get at least a few years out them if not longer. 

Here are some WBO posts that might help -

https://willardboatowners.groups.io/g/main/message/14917  unfortunately, the tinyURL links are now dead, so no pics, but he gives a decent explanation. Interesting idea to use a massive heater on the inside as he forms the plexiglass. 

https://willardboatowners.groups.io/g/main/message/12883

https://willardboatowners.groups.io/g/main/message/6200






M/V Weebles
1970 Willard 36 Sedan Hull #40

Ensenada, MX


FROM THE WBO FILES - NO IDEA WHO'S BOAT THIS IS:
<dummyfile.0.part>




--
Steve Vega 36 “Broadbill


Bill
 

I have replaced some of the flat windows in two W36S boats. In hull #6 I replaced the forward side sliding windows with Diamond Sea Glaze sliding windows. The thickness of the cabin sides was 19/32”.

On hull #34 I replaced the 4 side windows with DSG sliders, and the flat center windshield with a hinged opening DSG window. All 5 of these windows had 5/8” thick walls, made up of 1/4” fiberglass molding bonded to 3/8” mahogany plywood.

I too have looked for white key lock H strip but found only black available. If anyone finds a source of white I would also be interested. Mine is very decayed but so far I have chosen not to disturb it. If someone finds a supplier who can make a batch, or has it in stock, I will happily participate in measuring the thickness of the curved part of the wall and the cost of setup to produce the white material (within reason of course).

Bill
--
W36S #34 The Grey Goose


Daron Toll
 


Hello,
I am also interested in the molding and would help with cost to produce the white molding. I would like to replace the windows on W36S hull #20 (or hull 26?). Thanks everyone for the good information

Daron Toll

 

On Monday, September 19, 2022 at 09:42:51 PM PDT, Bill <limedodge@...> wrote:


I have replaced some of the flat windows in two W36S boats. In hull #6 I replaced the forward side sliding windows with Diamond Sea Glaze sliding windows. The thickness of the cabin sides was 19/32”.

On hull #34 I replaced the 4 side windows with DSG sliders, and the flat center windshield with a hinged opening DSG window. All 5 of these windows had 5/8” thick walls, made up of 1/4” fiberglass molding bonded to 3/8” mahogany plywood.

I too have looked for white key lock H strip but found only black available. If anyone finds a source of white I would also be interested. Mine is very decayed but so far I have chosen not to disturb it. If someone finds a supplier who can make a batch, or has it in stock, I will happily participate in measuring the thickness of the curved part of the wall and the cost of setup to produce the white material (within reason of course).

Bill
--
W36S #34 The Grey Goose

--
Vega 36 “Little Willy”


Daron Toll
 


Hello,
I am also interested in the molding and would help with cost to produce the white molding. I would like to replace the windows on W36S hull #20 (or hull 26?). Thanks everyone for the good information

Daron Toll

 

On Monday, September 19, 2022 at 09:42:51 PM PDT, Bill <limedodge@...> wrote:


I have replaced some of the flat windows in two W36S boats. In hull #6 I replaced the forward side sliding windows with Diamond Sea Glaze sliding windows. The thickness of the cabin sides was 19/32”.

On hull #34 I replaced the 4 side windows with DSG sliders, and the flat center windshield with a hinged opening DSG window. All 5 of these windows had 5/8” thick walls, made up of 1/4” fiberglass molding bonded to 3/8” mahogany plywood.

I too have looked for white key lock H strip but found only black available. If anyone finds a source of white I would also be interested. Mine is very decayed but so far I have chosen not to disturb it. If someone finds a supplier who can make a batch, or has it in stock, I will happily participate in measuring the thickness of the curved part of the wall and the cost of setup to produce the white material (within reason of course).

Bill
--
W36S #34 The Grey Goose

--
Vega 36 “Little Willy”


Peter P
 

I wish I had a pic from when this was under construction because I'm not sure the words will adequately describe. 

A fiberglass guy made a recessed frame that was then fiberglassed into the window opening. The new frame allows the pane of glass (or plastic) to mount roughly flush with the outer walls of the boat. Another fiberglass bezel was mounted so the glass is sandwiched between two pieces of fiberglass. On the inside, a wood trim bezel was fabricated to cover the fiberglass frame (second pic, sorry for the blue tape - being varnished). 

Pretty sure this is superior to the original welting, but labor intensive. However it's an option for the suitable motivated 

I sort of like the approach from the archives where the guy put a cannon heater (propane) on the dashboard and slowly bent the plastic window into place.  I'd screw it in, then use some sort of trim to hide the window edges, similar to the fiberglass trim on my boat. Would be strong and water tight. 
--

M/V Weebles
1970 Willard 36 Sedan Hull #40

Ensenada, MX