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CAP RAIL CAULKING ON MY WILLARD 8 TON CUTTER

ALAN LAVINE seaVocean
 

HAS ANY ONE CAREFULLY CUT OUT THE OLD CAULK ON A CAP RAIL WITH A FINE CUT SAW AND AND RE-CAULKED WITH SAY 4200 OR SOMETHING ELSE
seaVocean 8t CUTTER THANKS IN ADVANCE. fyi i re-caulked the inside with boatlife when i painted the main deck put didn't cut out the old caulk

Pease, Dan
 

Not sure what you are trying to accomplish.
Do you have a leak?
Is this just for asthetics?
 Are you talking about recaulking under the edges of the caprail?
If so, that may not address your leak.  
Dan


On Tue, Apr 28, 2020, 11:25 captainbligh01 via groups.io <captainbligh01=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
HAS ANY ONE CAREFULLY CUT OUT THE OLD CAULK ON A CAP RAIL WITH A FINE CUT SAW AND AND RE-CAULKED WITH SAY 4200 OR SOMETHING ELSE
seaVocean 8t CUTTER THANKS IN ADVANCE. fyi i re-caulked the inside with boatlife when i painted the main deck put didn't cut out the old caulk

HALLIE DAVID MCCURDI
 

Dan

Why wouldn’t recaulking  under the cap rail not fix a leak. If you new that’s where the leak was coming from. Or are there other issues I haven’t though of.

 

Dave

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Pease, Dan
Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2020 9:24 AM
To: main@WillardBoatOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [WillardBoatOwners] CAP RAIL CAULKING ON MY WILLARD 8 TON CUTTER

 

Not sure what you are trying to accomplish.

Do you have a leak?

Is this just for asthetics?

 Are you talking about recaulking under the edges of the caprail?

If so, that may not address your leak.  

Dan

 

On Tue, Apr 28, 2020, 11:25 captainbligh01 via groups.io <captainbligh01=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

HAS ANY ONE CAREFULLY CUT OUT THE OLD CAULK ON A CAP RAIL WITH A FINE CUT SAW AND AND RE-CAULKED WITH SAY 4200 OR SOMETHING ELSE
seaVocean 8t CUTTER THANKS IN ADVANCE. fyi i re-caulked the inside with boatlife when i painted the main deck put didn't cut out the old caulk

 

ALAN LAVINE seaVocean
 

esthetic and there some gaps that could leak

On Apr 28, 2020 9:28 AM, HALLIE DAVID MCCURDI <Davidsailboat@...> wrote:

Dan

Why wouldn’t recaulking  under the cap rail not fix a leak. If you new that’s where the leak was coming from. Or are there other issues I haven’t though of.

 

Dave

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Pease, Dan
Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2020 9:24 AM
To: main@WillardBoatOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [WillardBoatOwners] CAP RAIL CAULKING ON MY WILLARD 8 TON CUTTER

 

Not sure what you are trying to accomplish.

Do you have a leak?

Is this just for asthetics?

 Are you talking about recaulking under the edges of the caprail?

If so, that may not address your leak.  

Dan

 

On Tue, Apr 28, 2020, 11:25 captainbligh01 via groups.io <captainbligh01=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

HAS ANY ONE CAREFULLY CUT OUT THE OLD CAULK ON A CAP RAIL WITH A FINE CUT SAW AND AND RE-CAULKED WITH SAY 4200 OR SOMETHING ELSE
seaVocean 8t CUTTER THANKS IN ADVANCE. fyi i re-caulked the inside with boatlife when i painted the main deck put didn't cut out the old caulk

 


HALLIE DAVID MCCURDI
 

Does anybody know how the hull deck joint under the cap rail are attached. Are they bedded and bolted or fiberglaased at the joint??

 

Dave McCurdy

Willard 30

Sculliwag

 

 

 

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: ALAN LAVINE seaVocean via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2020 11:23 AM
To: main@WillardBoatOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [WillardBoatOwners] CAP RAIL CAULKING ON MY WILLARD 8 TON CUTTER

 

esthetic and there some gaps that could leak

On Apr 28, 2020 9:28 AM, HALLIE DAVID MCCURDI <Davidsailboat@...> wrote:

Dan

Why wouldn’t recaulking  under the cap rail not fix a leak. If you new that’s where the leak was coming from. Or are there other issues I haven’t though of.

 

Dave

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Pease, Dan
Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2020 9:24 AM
To: main@WillardBoatOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [WillardBoatOwners] CAP RAIL CAULKING ON MY WILLARD 8 TON CUTTER

 

Not sure what you are trying to accomplish.

Do you have a leak?

Is this just for asthetics?

 Are you talking about recaulking under the edges of the caprail?

If so, that may not address your leak.  

Dan

 

On Tue, Apr 28, 2020, 11:25 captainbligh01 via groups.io <captainbligh01=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

HAS ANY ONE CAREFULLY CUT OUT THE OLD CAULK ON A CAP RAIL WITH A FINE CUT SAW AND AND RE-CAULKED WITH SAY 4200 OR SOMETHING ELSE
seaVocean 8t CUTTER THANKS IN ADVANCE. fyi i re-caulked the inside with boatlife when i painted the main deck put didn't cut out the old caulk

 


ALAN LAVINE seaVocean
 


On Apr 28, 2020 11:22 AM, "ALAN LAVINE seaVocean via groups.io" <captainbligh01@...> wrote:
esthetic and there some gaps that could leak

On Apr 28, 2020 9:28 AM, HALLIE DAVID MCCURDI <Davidsailboat@...> wrote:

Dan

Why wouldn’t recaulking  under the cap rail not fix a leak. If you new that’s where the leak was coming from. Or are there other issues I haven’t though of.

 

Dave

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Pease, Dan
Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2020 9:24 AM
To: main@WillardBoatOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [WillardBoatOwners] CAP RAIL CAULKING ON MY WILLARD 8 TON CUTTER

 

Not sure what you are trying to accomplish.

Do you have a leak?

Is this just for asthetics?

 Are you talking about recaulking under the edges of the caprail?

If so, that may not address your leak.  

Dan

 

On Tue, Apr 28, 2020, 11:25 captainbligh01 via groups.io <captainbligh01=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

HAS ANY ONE CAREFULLY CUT OUT THE OLD CAULK ON A CAP RAIL WITH A FINE CUT SAW AND AND RE-CAULKED WITH SAY 4200 OR SOMETHING ELSE
seaVocean 8t CUTTER THANKS IN ADVANCE. fyi i re-caulked the inside with boatlife when i painted the main deck put didn't cut out the old caulk

 



ALAN LAVINE seaVocean
 

good question

On Apr 28, 2020 11:29 AM, HALLIE DAVID MCCURDI <Davidsailboat@...> wrote:

Does anybody know how the hull deck joint under the cap rail are attached. Are they bedded and bolted or fiberglaased at the joint??

 

Dave McCurdy

Willard 30

Sculliwag

 

 

 

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: ALAN LAVINE seaVocean via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2020 11:23 AM
To: main@WillardBoatOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [WillardBoatOwners] CAP RAIL CAULKING ON MY WILLARD 8 TON CUTTER

 

esthetic and there some gaps that could leak

On Apr 28, 2020 9:28 AM, HALLIE DAVID MCCURDI <Davidsailboat@...> wrote:

Dan

Why wouldn’t recaulking  under the cap rail not fix a leak. If you new that’s where the leak was coming from. Or are there other issues I haven’t though of.

 

Dave

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Pease, Dan
Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2020 9:24 AM
To: main@WillardBoatOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [WillardBoatOwners] CAP RAIL CAULKING ON MY WILLARD 8 TON CUTTER

 

Not sure what you are trying to accomplish.

Do you have a leak?

Is this just for asthetics?

 Are you talking about recaulking under the edges of the caprail?

If so, that may not address your leak.  

Dan

 

On Tue, Apr 28, 2020, 11:25 captainbligh01 via groups.io <captainbligh01=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

HAS ANY ONE CAREFULLY CUT OUT THE OLD CAULK ON A CAP RAIL WITH A FINE CUT SAW AND AND RE-CAULKED WITH SAY 4200 OR SOMETHING ELSE
seaVocean 8t CUTTER THANKS IN ADVANCE. fyi i re-caulked the inside with boatlife when i painted the main deck put didn't cut out the old caulk

 



Peter P
 

I agree with Dan - it may not fix your leak. I know, it looks like it should, and maybe I'm just a lousy caulker. But I have not had much success with caulking over a leak vs re-bedding fittings. Leak just seems to reappear, sooner rather than later. 

That said, given the difficulty of removing a caprail, I'd definitely give it a try. Would give a Fein Tool a try with plenty of scraper blades. Depending on how deep the crevice opening is, maybe caulk first with a small bead jammed in as tight/far as possible, then caulk over with a second, thicker bead. 

Good luck!

Peter


On Tuesday, April 28, 2020, 02:30:21 PM EDT, ALAN LAVINE seaVocean via groups.io <captainbligh01@...> wrote:



On Apr 28, 2020 11:22 AM, "ALAN LAVINE seaVocean via groups.io" <captainbligh01@...> wrote:
esthetic and there some gaps that could leak

On Apr 28, 2020 9:28 AM, HALLIE DAVID MCCURDI <Davidsailboat@...> wrote:

Dan

Why wouldn’t recaulking  under the cap rail not fix a leak. If you new that’s where the leak was coming from. Or are there other issues I haven’t though of.

 

Dave

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Pease, Dan
Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2020 9:24 AM
To: main@WillardBoatOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [WillardBoatOwners] CAP RAIL CAULKING ON MY WILLARD 8 TON CUTTER

 

Not sure what you are trying to accomplish.

Do you have a leak?

Is this just for asthetics?

 Are you talking about recaulking under the edges of the caprail?

If so, that may not address your leak.  

Dan

 

On Tue, Apr 28, 2020, 11:25 captainbligh01 via groups.io <captainbligh01=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

HAS ANY ONE CAREFULLY CUT OUT THE OLD CAULK ON A CAP RAIL WITH A FINE CUT SAW AND AND RE-CAULKED WITH SAY 4200 OR SOMETHING ELSE
seaVocean 8t CUTTER THANKS IN ADVANCE. fyi i re-caulked the inside with boatlife when i painted the main deck put didn't cut out the old caulk

 




--

M/V Weebles
1970 Willard 36 Sedan Hull #40

Ensenada, MX

ALAN LAVINE seaVocean
 

That was my thought open up the area is best possible. Call control in as much material as it'll hold leaving enough to put a finish bead over it

On Apr 28, 2020 12:05 PM, "Peter P via groups.io" <pete_pisc@...> wrote:
I agree with Dan - it may not fix your leak. I know, it looks like it should, and maybe I'm just a lousy caulker. But I have not had much success with caulking over a leak vs re-bedding fittings. Leak just seems to reappear, sooner rather than later. 

That said, given the difficulty of removing a caprail, I'd definitely give it a try. Would give a Fein Tool a try with plenty of scraper blades. Depending on how deep the crevice opening is, maybe caulk first with a small bead jammed in as tight/far as possible, then caulk over with a second, thicker bead. 

Good luck!

Peter


On Tuesday, April 28, 2020, 02:30:21 PM EDT, ALAN LAVINE seaVocean via groups.io <captainbligh01@...> wrote:



On Apr 28, 2020 11:22 AM, "ALAN LAVINE seaVocean via groups.io" <captainbligh01@...> wrote:
esthetic and there some gaps that could leak

On Apr 28, 2020 9:28 AM, HALLIE DAVID MCCURDI <Davidsailboat@...> wrote:

Dan

Why wouldn’t recaulking  under the cap rail not fix a leak. If you new that’s where the leak was coming from. Or are there other issues I haven’t though of.

 

Dave

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Pease, Dan
Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2020 9:24 AM
To: main@WillardBoatOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [WillardBoatOwners] CAP RAIL CAULKING ON MY WILLARD 8 TON CUTTER

 

Not sure what you are trying to accomplish.

Do you have a leak?

Is this just for asthetics?

 Are you talking about recaulking under the edges of the caprail?

If so, that may not address your leak.  

Dan

 

On Tue, Apr 28, 2020, 11:25 captainbligh01 via groups.io <captainbligh01=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

HAS ANY ONE CAREFULLY CUT OUT THE OLD CAULK ON A CAP RAIL WITH A FINE CUT SAW AND AND RE-CAULKED WITH SAY 4200 OR SOMETHING ELSE
seaVocean 8t CUTTER THANKS IN ADVANCE. fyi i re-caulked the inside with boatlife when i painted the main deck put didn't cut out the old caulk

 




--

M/V Weebles
1970 Willard 36 Sedan Hull #40

Ensenada, MX

Pease, Dan
 

How would you know where the leak is coming from?  Isn’t it like a roof leak?  It always drips far away from the actual leak.

Ultimately it is leaking thru the hull/deck seam, which is under the caprail.  I assume this is a seventys boat like mine and the caulking in the hull/deck seam is dried out and bad.

That means that any water that gets under the caprail will come in thru that seam.

I suppose if you can actually seal all around the caprail everywhere you might get it.

I lifted my entire caprail up (in one piece!) and recalled the hull /deck seam.  But I’m a glutton for punishment.

Dan

On Tue, Apr 28, 2020 at 2:30 PM ALAN LAVINE seaVocean via groups.io <captainbligh01=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

On Apr 28, 2020 11:22 AM, "ALAN LAVINE seaVocean via groups.io" <captainbligh01=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
esthetic and there some gaps that could leak

On Apr 28, 2020 9:28 AM, HALLIE DAVID MCCURDI <Davidsailboat@...> wrote:

Dan

Why wouldn’t recaulking  under the cap rail not fix a leak. If you new that’s where the leak was coming from. Or are there other issues I haven’t though of.

 

Dave

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Pease, Dan
Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2020 9:24 AM
To: main@WillardBoatOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [WillardBoatOwners] CAP RAIL CAULKING ON MY WILLARD 8 TON CUTTER

 

Not sure what you are trying to accomplish.

Do you have a leak?

Is this just for asthetics?

 Are you talking about recaulking under the edges of the caprail?

If so, that may not address your leak.  

Dan

 

On Tue, Apr 28, 2020, 11:25 captainbligh01 via groups.io <captainbligh01=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

HAS ANY ONE CAREFULLY CUT OUT THE OLD CAULK ON A CAP RAIL WITH A FINE CUT SAW AND AND RE-CAULKED WITH SAY 4200 OR SOMETHING ELSE
seaVocean 8t CUTTER THANKS IN ADVANCE. fyi i re-caulked the inside with boatlife when i painted the main deck put didn't cut out the old caulk

 



Sven
 

The leaking caprail has been the most frustrating challenge on LAGOM,  our 'new' 40' pilothouse Willard.
 
 
We finally have the leaks somewhat under control and now only have trouble when it rains for many hours on end.  We put a new caulk bead under the edge of the caprail,  both insida and out,  after scraping out the old dried out caulk.  We slathered enough clear gloss Cetol (not the orange stuff !!) on the caprail to seal the wood itself.  We dripped Capt. Tolley's penetrating crack-seal on all penetrating screws and bolts until it didn't get sucked in by the capillary effect.  And then we crossed our fingers.
 
We still get occasional drips but not enough to ruin our day.
 
 
 
-Sven
 

Pease, Dan
 

It’s all in what you can live with.

I did a rather extensive rebuild on our 30 and was geared up to do the work.  Lifting, recaulking and replacing the caprail took three full days, the last day with a helper glueing everything back down.

On Tue, Apr 28, 2020 at 7:19 PM Sven <southbound@...> wrote:
The leaking caprail has been the most frustrating challenge on LAGOM,  our 'new' 40' pilothouse Willard.
 
 
We finally have the leaks somewhat under control and now only have trouble when it rains for many hours on end.  We put a new caulk bead under the edge of the caprail,  both insida and out,  after scraping out the old dried out caulk.  We slathered enough clear gloss Cetol (not the orange stuff !!) on the caprail to seal the wood itself.  We dripped Capt. Tolley's penetrating crack-seal on all penetrating screws and bolts until it didn't get sucked in by the capillary effect.  And then we crossed our fingers.
 
We still get occasional drips but not enough to ruin our day.
 
 
 
-Sven
 

Eric
 

When I bought Quasar, I thought I would be replacing all the cap rails they looked so bad. They have been over sanded, they are cracked, and the old iron fasteners are rusting away and popping plugs out!
They will never be show quality, but they look a heck of a lot better now after block sanding, Semco teak sealer, and sealing gaps and plug holes.
The last couple of years I've been sealing with Dap Dynaflex 230. I have not been happy with the results from the 5200, 4200 family of sealants for many reasons.
 I have successfully stopped interior leaks sealing gaps under the cap rail edges, joints, and fastener holes. I'm even completely filling old plug holes with the sealant after digging out the rust that was once a fastener head. The sealant does shrink, so it might need a second round on large gaps or plug holes. The brown sealant even matches my teak sealer color!
 Just dig out the old sealant, I usually use some kind of thin pointy device often an xacto knife. Clean the surfaces best as possible, I usually try to jam a little sandpaper into the gap and work it around to get a final clean. The edge of a 3" sanding disk works well in some areas. 
 Sometimes it helps to "prime" the surface by working some sealant into the wood/fiberglass a bit with a small brush or some tool just prior to laying a bead of sealant in the gap just to make sure it has good surface contact.
 I would not use Dynaflex230 for bedding anything. I've been trying some butyl tape on small things and use Dolphinite under large items.
 Someday (after the rest of the fasteners rust away) I will still need to remove the caprails as they have gaps under them that can trap water. The original bedding compound has far exceeded its life!

Have fun!
Eric   

Pease, Dan
 

Here is how I dealt with the railcap on Willie Dawes/exAudition/ex Puffin.

Teak Bungs of 2 different sizes bored about half the thickness and set in WEST system epoxy.  They’ve never moved in 7 years.

Dan

Pease, Dan
 

I guess I left out the word “scarfs” in my last post.  Railcap Scarfs.

On Tue, Apr 28, 2020 at 8:20 PM Pease, Dan via groups.io <capt.revere=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Here is how I dealt with the railcap on Willie Dawes/exAudition/ex Puffin.

Teak Bungs of 2 different sizes bored about half the thickness and set in WEST system epoxy.  They’ve never moved in 7 years.

Dan

ALAN LAVINE seaVocean
 

wow now I'm intrigued about the scarf  joint plugs can you elaborate please.

On Apr 28, 2020 5:21 PM, "Pease, Dan" <capt.revere@...> wrote:
I guess I left out the word “scarfs” in my last post.  Railcap Scarfs.

On Tue, Apr 28, 2020 at 8:20 PM Pease, Dan via groups.io <capt.revere=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Here is how I dealt with the railcap on Willie Dawes/exAudition/ex Puffin.

Teak Bungs of 2 different sizes bored about half the thickness and set in WEST system epoxy.  They’ve never moved in 7 years.

Dan


Pease, Dan
 

Well, when I bought the boat there was quite a gap that a PO had routed out and filled with some kind of goo.  So I payed out the holes by measurement and drilled the larger ones first, (with forstner bitt), drilled halfway in or so, then set those bungs in epoxy.  Let cure. Chiseled off til nearly flush, then drill the next set and repeat until scarf is filled, then chiseled off and sand.

Really quite satisfying, and an experiment that has worked out well.

I don’t do much varnishing, so caprails are left natural.

This process works well on checks and cracks as well.  Also can be used around the edges, like from the side or even angled up from the bottom.

I know they say you shouldn’t leave epoxy out in sunlight, but it doesn’t seem to be bothered here.

All stantions are bedded in 4000UV, but I would be tempted to use Bed-It tape another time.

Dan


On Tue, Apr 28, 2020 at 9:44 PM ALAN LAVINE seaVocean via groups.io <captainbligh01=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
wow now I'm intrigued about the scarf  joint plugs can you elaborate please.

On Apr 28, 2020 5:21 PM, "Pease, Dan" <capt.revere@...> wrote:
I guess I left out the word “scarfs” in my last post.  Railcap Scarfs.

On Tue, Apr 28, 2020 at 8:20 PM Pease, Dan via groups.io <capt.revere=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Here is how I dealt with the railcap on Willie Dawes/exAudition/ex Puffin.

Teak Bungs of 2 different sizes bored about half the thickness and set in WEST system epoxy.  They’ve never moved in 7 years.

Dan


John Reitzammer
 

The seal under the caprail on the 30'  8 Ton is held together by gravity.  The topside piece sits in what looks like a formed gutter and is remarkably well sealed.  I had leaks for 39 of the 39 years I owned mine.  When I replaced my caprail if was clear that the leaks were not coming from that joint.  Leaks come from the portlight sealing and the 4 thru bolts on the safety line stanchion.  As soon as a helper on the dock grabs the stanchion as you dock the sealing job on that stanchion is compromised. I would suggest never using 5200 on port lights.  You don’t want an adhesive you want a waterproof seal.  I pulled port lights and resealed every 15 years.  I pulled stanchions almost every season, at least the ones leaking most.

John Reitzammer
jreitz@...
Miami, FL - Jackson, TN
www.linkedin.com/in/johnreitzammer
www.music-path.org
CEL 305-790-9709

On Apr 28, 2020, at 1:22 PM, ALAN LAVINE seaVocean via groups.io <captainbligh01@...> wrote:

esthetic and there some gaps that could leak

On Apr 28, 2020 9:28 AM, HALLIE DAVID MCCURDI <Davidsailboat@...> wrote:

Dan

Why wouldn’t recaulking  under the cap rail not fix a leak. If you new that’s where the leak was coming from. Or are there other issues I haven’t though of.

 

Dave

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Pease, Dan
Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2020 9:24 AM
To: main@WillardBoatOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [WillardBoatOwners] CAP RAIL CAULKING ON MY WILLARD 8 TON CUTTER

 

Not sure what you are trying to accomplish.

Do you have a leak?

Is this just for asthetics?

 Are you talking about recaulking under the edges of the caprail?

If so, that may not address your leak.  

Dan

 

On Tue, Apr 28, 2020, 11:25 captainbligh01 via groups.io <captainbligh01=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

HAS ANY ONE CAREFULLY CUT OUT THE OLD CAULK ON A CAP RAIL WITH A FINE CUT SAW AND AND RE-CAULKED WITH SAY 4200 OR SOMETHING ELSE
seaVocean 8t CUTTER THANKS IN ADVANCE. fyi i re-caulked the inside with boatlife when i painted the main deck put didn't cut out the old caulk


 


Ana
 

Nuala May (Vega Horizon 30) used to leak like a sieve. When I finally suspected the caprail, I took all the old sealant off and the pictures show what I found. I used black Sikaflex to reseal. My leaks are gone to this day. Now I find it a lot easier to identify hardware on the caprail that needs resealing every once in a while.
Ana
Denny Island, BC

Pease, Dan
 

My memory may fail me, but I think that first off the hull/deck joint is either screwed or bolted together.

The the caprail is screwed or bolted down thru that joint.

Then the stantions are screwed thru the caprail and in some cases the long screws also go thru the hull/deck joint.

It is almost impossible to seal those places where screws go thru multiple layers, so any water that gets under the caprail is eventually going to find access to the interior.

It is far less than a perfect situation.

Dan