Re: [ADV] Re: [WillardBoatOwner] caprail sealing


Sean Eamon Kennedy
 

Here’s a few responses rolled into one.

Seams:
I’m never happy with the look of BoatLife seam caulk, but it does a good job of sealing. I just wish I could sand it after the fact (nope). Attached is a picture of the seam on my caprail. If you zoom in you can see how rough the seams look. Granted, I applied the sealant and trimmed it off during a rainy weekend, so things could have been different.

[The more time I spend with my yellow caprail the happier I am about it. I can’t say I’ve pulled off a Mediterranean look (there’s a lot of grey on the boat) but it’s quite jaunty, especially with the black seams. Just sayin’.]

I widened the existing seams using a box knife and small eyeglass screwdriver sharpened into a chisel. The teak is pretty shot after 40 some years and is very easy to cut. My advise is don’t try to “split” the seam - leave one existing edge and cut the trough into the opposing piece. It’s slow and laborious work, but not technically very difficult. Use the box knife when you are cutting against the grain (at the turns of the joint), use the “chisel” with the grain (cutting perpendicular to the grain on the long run).

Leaky fittings:
You can almost never trace a leak from where you see it in the boat to where the water is coming in. However…I have found three particularly pernicious leaks just by looking up under the caprail after soaking the boat. The source of the leak was the screw that had a drop of water hanging off its underside. One of these was a cleat fastener, but two where from bunged screws attaching the caprail to the hull/deck joint. I sealed these by removing the bung, removing the screw, duct taping the underside, then replacing the bung - sans screw - with a lot of thickened epoxy (the duct tape to keep it from leaking out). I then replaced the caprail fastening screw a couple of bung’s distance away from the original. The cleat I removed, then did the epoxy/bung thing, then replaced it in a different spot.

Ultimately I moved all the cleats and stanchions to a different location because I didn’t like where they landed. Sometimes the move was small, but it allowed me to epoxy bung all the old holes and start fresh with new sealant.

Old caprail compound:
On Moonlight I don’t think it’s dolphinite, but after all these decades who knows what dolphinite looks like? Under the stem fitting it was hard and brittle with little or no adhesive quality. It was also applied very thick - over .5”. (See attached photo.) It almost seemed like whatever marmoleum is made of. So maybe dolphinite is a good guess.




On May 27, 2021, at 5:07 PM, HALLIE DAVID MCCURDI <Davidsailboat@...> wrote:


Dan
I will seal the joint with black poly. If it thought enough I might try sanding dust and wood glue, Titebond.

Sent from my Verizon Motorola Smartphone
On May 27, 2021 4:41 PM, "Pease, Dan" <capt.revere@...> wrote:
How will you make the scarfs watertight?

On Thu, May 27, 2021 at 11:46 AM HALLIE DAVID MCCURDI <Davidsailboat@...> wrote:
As part of the project I intend on stripping the caps and removing the hardware and redoing the brightwork finish. At that point I will rebed all hardware.

David McCurdy
Willard 30
Scallywag


Sent from my Verizon Motorola Smartphone
On May 27, 2021 7:34 AM, "Gary Mertl via groups.io" <gulliver32us=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
In that case, you might also consider re-bedding anything attached to the caprail, like lifelines, cleats, ets. They may also be a point of leaking.

Gary
W30 Voyager, Orca
Bellingham, WA


On Wednesday, May 26, 2021, 08:20:52 AM PDT, HALLIE DAVID MCCURDI <davidsailboat@...> wrote:


The leak isn't bad yet. Just thought I would address the issue before it got to bad. I am not interested in moving the teak caps yet. I think by removing the lose caulking/ bedding and applying Sikaflex 291 or a similar product I should be able to address the issue. Dose anybody know what the original product is they use to bed the teak caps?

David McCurdy
Willard 39 Nomad
Scallywag

Sent from my Verizon Motorola Smartphone
On May 26, 2021 7:53 AM, "Gary Mertl via groups.io" <gulliver32us=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
I agree with that, Dan. I went around and caulked the edges a couple of years ago and my leaks got a lot worse. Scraped it all out and it's much better. Dang thing still leaks though, grrrrr.

Gary
W30 Voyager, Orca
Bellingham, WA


On Wednesday, May 26, 2021, 04:29:53 AM PDT, Pease, Dan <capt.revere@...> wrote:


I can dig up a picture maybe, but I successfully lifted my entire teak caprail, (horizon 30),  in one piece, with no damage, to reseal the deck joint.
Just recaulking around the edges will just seal in water that gets to the hull/deck joint. IMHO.  It is the hull/deck joint that you need to address.
Dan

On Wed, May 26, 2021, 01:13 pearln77 <klingbiel@...> wrote:
I sssume the caprails  are not intended to be removed. I use 4200 whenever I intend future separation. If the cap rails were to be removed, it would be total destruction in any case. 


On May 25, 2021, at 8:45 PM, richarddalaska <rpackard@...> wrote:

Don't ever use 5200 on a boat. If you do, the next owner will come gunning for you. 5200 is intended to be a VERY permanent adhesive as well as sealant. Use 4200 or the sikaflex product already mentioned. 5200 can be removed with some products but it is VERY labor intensive.
--
Richard P
Willard 40 -Lilliana-Sea of Cortez, Mexico
Willard 30- Puffin- SE Alaska
Tiffany Jayne 34-sailboat- Dancer- SF Bay

--
Gary
W30 Voyager, ORCA
Bellingham, WA

--
David McCurdy
Vega 30 Nomad, Scallywag

--
Gary
W30 Voyager, ORCA
Bellingham, WA

--
David McCurdy
Vega 30 Nomad, Scallywag


--
David McCurdy
Vega 30 Nomad, Scallywag

--
Sean Eamon Kennedy
Vega Voyager “Moonlight”

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